11.09.2011
Walked all the way from the first gate on Centre Creek road, a long haul. We found the east ridge to be an excellent climb. Protection was a bit tricky at the start due to vegetation, but then things cleaned up and got really good. There were lots of parallel hand and finger cracks on this route, so our most use pieces were tri cams and #2 and #3 camalots.
We finished right of the crest, rather than left as suggested by the guidebooks. We climbed 11 roped pitches in all and took 13 hours round trip from the bivi site. The descent via the NE ridge was fairly straightforward (scrambling + 5 obvious rappels) until the final gully, which was a really ugly scramble down. There were a few rap stations in the gully but we were worried about pulling down loose rocks in the confined gully so we climbed down.
We ended up hiking out at night by moonlight as my partner had to be at work on Monday morning. We got off route (too far south) and had to bushwhack a bit near the bottom of the descent. It was easier ground, but more bushy than the way up. It ended up being a 20 hour day for me, my longest ever.
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